By the 80s the Italian Christmas cake had become a sad industrial preparation. A fluffy dome-shaped cake with raisins and candy citrus fruit and a prominent taste of flavour-enhancers.
It was even hard to justify its popularity among the Italian crowds. In any case, these days a new kind of Panettone has sprung up. It's the old panettone, the one made with real stuff over a couple of days. This is a cake with real butter and especially with real lievito madre (a handmade rising agent which is prepared over a number of days).
I get mine at Paticceria Busnelli, in a small village called Arluno. They got a prize for it and since then people drive from nearby towns to get one.
I had to get there early this morning to secure a couple of specimens for Christmas. A freshly made panettone tastes best after a few days!
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